So additional reasons Selvage denim is a bit expensive is because the fabric width is very narrow which requires a higher yield of fabric per jean, and the productivity of garments is very low. Selvage fabric is becoming very rare due to the vintage equipment and experience required to make it consistently.
Why is Selvedge Denim Better? The most common answer to this question is that selvedge denim is superior because it won't unravel. That clean edge visible when the jeans are cuffed is thought to be superior in durability because the ends of the fabric are woven together and won't fray.
According to former Levi's XX Head Designer Miles Johnson, the Two Horse brand made use of selvedge denim up until 1985. In the early to mid-1980's the use of selvedge denim was phased out due to productive efficiency, and the jeans produced in this era were finished with an overlock stitch on the outseam instead.
The first (and some say best) method is to wear your jeans into a bath or a shower. This will allow the denim to shrink ever-so-slightly into the contours of your body. Once completely soaked, you can them hang them to dry, or if it is sunny outside, you can keep them on and go lie in the sun.
Selvedge tends to have a tighter, denser weave than non-selvedge. The higher density gives the denim a sturdier hand. The use of the older selvedge loom technology also creates variations on the denim surface (due to inconsistencies in the weaving process) compared to denim woven on modern looms.
Since raw denim is unwashed, it will shrink. This is why sanforized jeans are considered to be "pre-shrunk." Shrinkage with sanforized denim is limited to less than 1%, while unsanforized denim could shrink up to one or two sizes.
For a selvedge denim that is 100% cotton, then set your iron to a high heat (cotton) setting using steam. If your selvedge has any stretch in it, you will need a cooler iron setting. To protect your jeans use a tea towel cloth between the iron and the jeans. A good rule of thumb is to iron the pocket bags first.
LEVI'S 511 SLIM FIT ETERNAL DAY (Raw Selvedge Denim) - REVIEW.
To allow the denim to conform to your body, it's recommended to wear the jeans while in warm water (preferably your tub) for around half an hour, so that the denim can learn about your specific body type. This helps the jeans to shrink down to your size, without the ability to become smaller than your waist.
WHEN THE JEANS ARE TOO BIG
- WASH THEM IN HOT WATER.
- TAKE YOUR JEANS TO A HOT BATH.
- WEAR YOUR FAVORITE BELT.
- SPRAY THEM WITH LUKEWARM WATER, THEN PULL TO STRETCH.
- SIT IN A WARM BATH WHILE WEARING THE JEANS.
- SPEND MORE TIME WITH YOUR JEANS.
The waistband should be snug. Try to fit two fingers down the back. If you can fit your whole hand, they are too loose, if only one or no fingers, too tight.
It features a narrow, tightly woven band on both edges of the denim fabric which, one, prevents it from unravelling and, two, shows a clean finished look. The word selvedge comes from “self-edge”, as the edge of the denim has a clean finish and comes on a 32” roll rather than the standard 62” roll.
The Levi's 501 and 511 styles are genuine menswear classics and both are available in Levi's raw denim – which it calls 'rigid'. If you like your clothing to come with a story, it doesn't get much better than this.
In general, you can expect up to 3-4% shrinkage, which on a pair of jeans with a 30” inseam would mean shrinking about 1” – 1 ¼” in the length. But this will vary from brand to brand and style to style. Shrinkage over 5% is generally considered unacceptable.
Raw denim is stiff and not known for its comfort until it's broken in (which can take months). Do you care about the process of breaking in a jean from scratch? Breaking in a jean from scratch is the only reason to buy raw. If you don't care about the break-in process, don't buy raw.
When you wash them, water fills up and spreads out the fabric. When you dry them, the water is removed, and the fabric winds up more pulled together than before. When it gets washed and then heated up when dried, the fibers in the strands tighten up due to the heat. Wearing them forces the fibers back apart.
If the Jeans Are Too TightSpray them with lukewarm water, and then lay the jeans out on the floor. Stand on each leg of the jeans, bend down, and use your hands to manually pull and stretch the jeans while they are wet. Feel free to pull them in any and all directions, reapplying the lukewarm water as needed.
Dry, 100% cotton denim expands anywhere between one inch to 1.5 inches over a three month period of daily wear. From there I machine washing a few times before my usual first daring repair, and then continue to cold wash and hang dry throughout the denim's life.
How can I permanently shrink them? You can try washing and rinsing them in hot water then drying them on high heat. That's about it for permanent shrinkage. If they don't shrink after a few hot washings then that's all she wrote; you got 'em as shrunk as they'll ever be.
Always take the smaller size as cotton tends to grow when it doesn't have a stretch fabric mixed into the cotton. It will shrink slightly on washing and stretch again when worn. With Raw Denim the 100% cotton has not been treated at all at the factory.
Here's what to do about that..
- Work out in them. Not really, but a few lunges and squats will help to loosen up the fibers.
- Wear them around the house. Any type of movement can help the denim loosen up a little bit.
- Take a bath with them (yes, really.)
- Some people say get out and wear them until they dry..
501 non-stretch in a crop length. Petites rejoice! This is the link to the 501 stretch in several washes.
If You Need to Just Shrink One AreaFill your bottle with three parts hot water and one part liquid fabric softener. Shake to combine, then spray the area until it is well-soaked. Leave any part you don't want to shrink completely dry. Then, throw the jeans in the dryer on the hottest setting available.
Raw denim has been equated with quality, but washed denim is just as good. In fact, washed denim has benefits lost to denim enthusiasts who subscribe to the belief that it's raw or nothing. A decade ago, many of the brands that produced raw denim jeans were indeed making a higher quality product.
A good rule of thumb is to wash your jeans after every 3-10 wears, or when they start to smell. If you're regularly active in your jeans (think: manual work, anything where you work up a sweat), wash them every 3 wears, but if you're working at a desk, you can probably go up to 10 wears.
Try rubbing coffee beans on your jeans, particularly in areas where you want some faster, more accentuated fading. Why? Because coffee is acidic, and the acids in coffee will break down the fabric just enough to get a natural looking fade.
